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Casco Viejo;I Know My Horse Could Find Her Way Down These Charming,Narrow Cobblestone Streets,But Can We?

I am writing at 4:30 am in the beautiful beach community of Pedasi. For me this is the most beautiful and serene time of day to practice yoga. The roosters are crowing,with cattle mooing and horses are grazing.Many jungle and bird sounds filter through the big open air windows in our country vacation rental home  close to the town and beach. I can hear howler monkeys in the distance, as they echo several miles away. You have to be listening from here, but they are near rivers close to our location. Writing the blog has been challenging with quickly moving travel plans, internet connection, and  an illness that needed medical attention…more on that later.

Prior to the jungle adventure previously posted we journeyed through Casco Viejo.This historical part of Panama City was a short but fast and furious taxi ride away from our apartment. Although I vowed never to get into a taxi without a seatbelt after a harrowing near miss with a bus on  a previous trip at a traffic circle,I found myself without a seatbelt once again.To distract myself,I opened and shut my eyes intermittently looking at the view,and practiced my meditation and breathing. There is no place for panic on a romantic outing! Chaos is a word, however here it seems the meaning takes on a whole new order. It is confusion that bounces and rattles in a vast melting pot of honking.

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Entering the colonial part of the city was a sight that was astounding and impressive. Many buildings have been restored to their colonial glory. the presidential palace is there with many armed guards, and it feels like an extremely safe place to be.Foreign and Panamanian residents have moved into high priced apartments,shops and restaurants are prospering, and tourists are enjoying the beautiful city squares,churches and architecture.It offers a unique feeling of transition, as well as tradition, with old stone,three and four story buildings with red tile roofs,rough iron railings around balconies decorated with potted plants, surrounded by impressive squares and ruins.We stopped at a local square to have a refreshing local Panamanian beer.Close by was a church with an artist painting. Concerts of classical music opera, ballet are held here as well as jazz….there is a spectacular jazz festival each January.

The presidential palace(Palace of the Herons or Palacio de las Garzas) stands along the waterfront overlooking Panama Bay, with many armed guards, in elegant uniforms.My Palace picture  will not download right now,but I will add it later.

Of course I had to take Glenn to traditional clothing shops. I had a loose pair of light cotton pants in mind, however the cotton was either really thick, or if it looked like it could work , a wrap around that was a science project as it was sewed together or the legs were extremely short. The Panamanian shop owner was of great assistance, and between my sign language and her intelligence, we understood each other. She was abrupt and then smiled and looked at me with amusement.

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On the way home to the apartment we took a taxi to the local “Super”. I offered to go in while Glenn waited in the taxi. Now, what I had in mind was chickpeas, salad,the crackers we like and toothpaste  ….keeping it nice and simple. The store appeared to be small from the outside, and I had visioned a quick shop. What looked small from the outside was a huge version of the smaller stores with a larger version of chaos.A quick trip can easily be a long one I realized, and focused on my list. As soon as I took my cart in the middle of it all and the wheel failed in the isle next to a stack of eggs that were not refrigerated next to the white bread isle, I knew I was in trouble. Getting a new cart took some time and I started a fresh expedition. Glenn found me studying labels and brought to my attention that I had been gone for an extremely long time.To my surprise after waiting in line our 50 dollar US bill was to be documented with a passport, name and we waited  for the manager to come to the till for his signature and close study of the bill. A hummingbird, I quickly move to and from, and am now willing to finally slow down, take a poetic perspective, and go with the slower pace here. After all, it will get done. I have quickly learned to use the best non verbal communication of all;a joyful genuine smile.This is universal in all languages.

“Perfection is attained by slow degrees;it requires the hand of time” Voltaire

My next posts will be on Coronado,El Valle,Playa Veneo and Pedasi. I will catch up in a local bakery and cafe. Our adventure has just begun! After taking the bus and assessing the amount of time it will take,we are going to rent a car.

 

 

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Wounaan Indian Tribe,Chagres River and Soberania National Park near Gamboa,Panama


We had an excellent jungle boat tour with “Barefoot Panama Tours” on Lake Gatun near Gamboa, Panama. This is part of the Panama Canal water complex. The Panama Canal is only 30 minutes north of Panama City. The canal requires a vast rainforest watershed to feed water to its lock system, which uses millions of gallons each day. For this reason the canal has to preserve its watersheds, making for plentiful pristine rainforests. Our guide Ross was a knowledgeable and engaging gentleman. He has a love of nature, culture and the history of the country of which he shares in a very enthusiastic and entertaining manner. He picked us up early in the morning from our apartment in Panama City and before long we were in the rainforest amongst the sights and sounds of the jungle. A Capuchin monkey tribe was all around us in the trees, some carrying their clinging babies. On prominent display in the foreground, amongst the constant chattering and shrieks from his family as they leaped and climbed the vine-covered jungle forest, was a large dominant male. Each group is usually between 15-30 monkeys.

Continuing our peaceful boat trip, we wound our way through grassy reeds, the strong sun rays seeping through the many layers of jungle foliage.

We stopped again to marvel at a large troop of tiny Geoffrey’s Tamarin Monkeys found in Panama and Columbia. They are black and white with a red, brownish nape with a white triangle shape patch on their forehead. They excitedly chattered and danced in an enormous tree next to our boat on the water, some coming for a brief visit on board.

We saw many beautiful multicoloured iguanas both large and small while howler monkeys made their low basal calls close by.

We stopped at a small island where Glenn did aerial drone photography for Ross’s company. He took off from the front of a pontoon boat with a compact space cleared out at the front. Our guide Ross proved to have very steady nerves and hands as he agreed to hand catch the drone on its return. We then made our way through the Panama Canal for several miles to reach the Gamboa Rainforest Resort. We then transferred to a narrow, flat-bottomed boat for the quick trip to visit a Wounaan Indigenous tribe’s nearby village.This incredible adventure can be see by video on the link below.

A young boy from the tribe picked us up at a unique spot. We got on the boat, and a could feel the heat, mist and steam from the forest amidst tropical bird sounds. A toucan flying with it’s significant long beak caught my eye. We arrived at the village for an extremely educational experience!

The Wounaan are a Panamanian group based originally in the Darien region. They are also known as the Wounana, Wound Meu, Noenama and by the homogenizing name Choco used to group together numerous Indigenous groups. They are a sub group of the Embera-Wounaan people, have a population of approximately 6,800 and speak Wounaan dialects originating from languages of the Chocoan family. Most Wounaan specifically inhabit villages within or just outside two Embera-Wounaan Comarcas. A Comarcas according to the dictionary, is an administrative region for an area with a substantial Indian population. Outside of these Comarcas some still live along the Darien rivers.Traditionally the Wounaan are/were semi nomadic people and lived by hunting, gathering and practicing swidden agriculture to grow bananas, corn and roots amongst other crops. Wounaan people are particularly well known for their bowl haircuts and elaborate body painting achieved using woodblocks. The Wounaan are also famed crafts people, creating intricate basket work and carvings. The goods produced by these talented artisans provide an important source of economic income. We had a detailed explanation with translation from Ross about their traditional life.

We then did a hike through the jungle with a knowledgable explanation of tree,plants and medicinal herbs from the chief of the tribe with Ross expertly translating.Shown with me is the water tree.

I bought a beautiful colourful hand dyed sarong purple and pink and turquoise and a basket which I will always cherish.

My next blog will be about the expat beach town Coronado. From there we will go to El Valle, and then continue to travel the expat communities in Panama.

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Arrived in Panama City!

When I woke up I had the same feeling of bewilderment and unreality that Alice must have had at the mad tea party. I am now looking out this morning at the most amazing view with the unfading  wonderment of a growing child. The first thing I did when I got up was toss my down jacket to one side and found my sandals at the bottom of my pack. I resisted the temptation to press my nose against the window of Panama Sara’s apartment to look out. What an incredible city! I grinned from ear to ear as I know there are howler monkeys close by. The jungle is on one side and the ocean on the other, with a mix of historic buildings and skyscrapers. It is classy,elegant and wild. There  is a beautiful tropical breeze with birds outside the many windows.Numerous small cars are honking and quickly passing each other. There are a variety of scenarios to watch out the front window. I see a massive blue butterfly painted on a roof, 3 teenage boys slowly  jogging in a schoolyard as if in detention, and palm trees gently swaying in the breeze. Glenn and I are having our coffee on the comfortable couch and gazing out the window. It was very grounding to do yoga and make my greens shake at 5am our time(8 am Panama time),with the blender provided in this well equipped kitchen.

Sarah Booth’s driver Diego picked us up at the airport. He was holding a sign with our names on it, just as promised. He had to wait for close to an hour as our plane was late pulling in.The entire trip went very smoothly. We flew with American Airlines from Vancouver to Dallas which was three and a half hours. It was late so we rushed to our connecting flight.From Dallas to Panama City it was 4 hours. We were very happy with how comfortable and smooth the flight was. Cheerful, helpful, conversational and informative, Diego then gave us an impressive tour  of the city.We cruised through Casco Viejo and Puente Marino(marine bridge) also called Corridor Sur. He then drove us to Super 99 where I shopped while Glenn and Diego had an animated conversation about soccer and a variety of subjects. I gathered groceries and ingredients for a fish dinner.I was astounded at how low the prices were! I bought a massive papaya for 1.60 USD.A big bag of coffee was 3.00, and a rich broad shouldered red Malbec  6.00, and a huge piece of white fish was 3.00.I bought a substantial amount of groceries for under 50.00. The Panamanian staff looked at me in amusement at my attempts at Spanish and sign language. I could not help but notice how high the security was with many policemen at the door. A staff member cheerfully carried the groceries out to Diego’s car. Diego then took us to the apartment and gave us an orientation with details. A cell phone was given to us as well as instructions for Wi Fi which works extremely well.We were extremely happy with Diego’s courteous service!

Panama Sarah’s apartment has more than everything we need.It has a full kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms,excellent views, is safe and secure, and in to walking distance of the historic part of the city.

So for now till my next post “Hasta la proxima mis amigos” Until next time my friends!            Kim

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Our Strategy for Adventure to Panama and Costa Rica

Trip planning to Panama was a kaleidoscope of many incredible possibilities. I have had ideas rattling around in my mind for 6 months! Although it was no where near like planning the 2016 Olympics in Brazil, this had it’s challenges.With not knowing a country it was a chess board of information with different squares that needed piecing together.The biggest piece missing in the puzzle is transportation. I did stumble across a site called thebusschedules.com which has Panama bus routes. What I do know is Panamanians take the bus often and there is a bus I am told to just about anywhere, as well as shuttles. We will know more about this once we are there.